trip to Montreal | juan’s virtual book

trip to Montreal

My wife Z and I are visiting our friends Ev & Vi for nine days.

So often

past trips to Montreal

Mentioned in trip to Montreal

I’ve been to Montreal several times now. The first was in the summer of 2010. I had just finished middle school and my family was moving from the suburbs of New York to something like a suburb of Victoria, BC. We’d travelled from New York to Cooperstown, then to Ottawa, then to Montreal. On the other side of the world, in South Africa, the World Cup was underway. We watched most games but we missed the infamous knockout game between Ghana and Uruguay because we were driving in some sunny Canadian countryside. We listened to the drama unfold over the radio.

On our last day in Montreal, before flying to the West Coast, we watched the World Cup final in our hotel rooms. I was rooting for Netherlands from the beginning and they made it all the way to final and then lost to Spain in extra time. I watched it with my family at the hotel we were staying at. I remember the sick feeling of disappointment when that goal went in and hearing my dad cheer in the adjoining room. I’m not sure why he was cheering for Spain.

Six years later in the summer I turned twenty I visited Montreal again, this time without family and just two of my friends. We took a redeye and dallied in sleepy stupor while we waited for our Airbnb in the Plateau to be ready for checkin. We explored the city and drank beer on the balcony in the muggy heat of August and heard the electricity crackle on the cables hanging over the street. Frank Ocean had dropped Blonde one week earlier and it seemed like every boutique we visited was playing it.

Another eight years later in 2022 I visited Montreal again, this time to visit my sister who’d moved there to study law at McGill. It was November but the World Cup was happening again because it was in Qatar, where summers are very hot. My sister was recovering from a cold or a flu of some sort and soon I caught it too. I was bedridden for days and I lay aching and sweating, watching the World Cup on my laptop. Luis Chávez scored one of the best free kicks I’ve ever seen, I don’t remember much else.

Today is July 9 2026 and tomorrow my wife and I will fly to Montreal while Spain duel Belgium in the World Cup quarterfinals. This World Cup I’ve followed more closely than most others. I’ve watched most of the games and even attended one in Seattle. The last time I watched so many World Cup games was sixteen years ago, in 2010, when my parents were organizing our move from the American East Coast to the Canadian West. Now I’m in charge of planning my travels and somehow managed to book our return flight on the day of the final. If the game goes to penalties like it did last year, I might have to watch it on my phone while we board the plane.

I find myself in Montreal when there’s a World Cup going on.

Friday 07/10/2026 – Vancouver → Montreal

I’m missing the Spain vs Belgium quarterfinal! Hopefully it will be boring.

  • get Lyft to YVR, breakfast, free upgrade, takeoff @ 12pm
  • read 1st chapter of Three Daughters of Eve by Elif Shafak
  • read five short stories by Shirley Jackson
  • get picked up w/ Z by Ev @ new Mtl airport
  • eat dinner @ Ev & Vi’s apt w/ Z & Ev
  • walk east along St Denis, pop into Champs w/ Z & Ev
  • drinks @ Big in Japan w/ Z & Ev

Saturday 07/11/2026 – Montreal

  • slept in w/ Z
  • had coffee, started reading Investigations of a Dog by Kafka, & read Prologue of The Secret History by Donna Tartt
  • brunch @ Bar Sparrow w/ Z & Ev
  • solo coffee @ Cafe Eclair
  • solo bike to Bar L’Barouf to meet my friend Hik for the World Cup match but he wasn’t there and it was full
  • sit at the bar of small Bar Le Pastel to watch England vs Norway, Vi joined me
  • get chicken sandwiches from Portugalia & meet Z, Ev, Vi, & Vi’s friends @ Bar Frappe for Switzerland vs Argentina
  • left w/ Z @ halftime to rest @ Ev & Vi’s apt and watch rest of the game

Norway plays England and Argentina plays Switzerland. How far could Haaland take Norway? Will this World Cup inscribe Kane into England’s football lore or will Bellingham overshadow him? Will Messi keep scoring? What the hell are Switzerland doing in the quarterfinals?

Sunday 07/12/2026 – Verdun & Montreal

  • coffee & breakfast @ Ev & Vi’s apt
  • drive to Verdun, play volleyball w/ Ev’s friends
  • swim @ free outdoor public pool
  • walk on pedestrian zone in Verdun town centre
  • cortado from Lili et Oli & sabich pita sandwich from Falafel Yoni
  • attended Toronto Tempo vs NY WNBA game @ Bell Centre
  • bike back to Ev & Vi’s apt & chill
  • solo bike along St Denis, north up past south edge of Parc la Fontaine, then through residential streets
  • lay & drowse on picnic bench looking up into trees in quiet corner of Parc des Compagnons-de-Saint-Laurent
  • walk to pedestrianized Ave Mont-Royal then bike north a bit & then all the way back south to Ev & Vi’s apt
  • pick up beer at Maxi
  • eat homemade dinner @ Ev & Vi’s apt w/ the group
  • smash & eat traditional chocolate cauldron that Vi brought from back home in Geneva
  • watch a chunk of Indiana Jones & the Temple of Doom w/ Vince

Monday 07/13/2026 – Montreal

  • slept in while Z & Ev hiked Mont Royal
  • had coffee, updated my World Cup Fantasy team, & continued reading Investigations of a Dog by Kafka
  • biked w/ Z down to Old Port
  • brunch @ Tommy Cafe
  • visited Museum of Archaelogy @ Pointe-à-Callière

Tuesday 07/14/2026 – Montreal

The first semifinal! France versus Belgium or, most likely, Spain.

Wednesday 07/15/2026 – Montreal

The second semifinal: Most likely, Argentina vs England.

Thursday 07/16/2026 – Montreal

Friday 07/17/2026 – Montreal

Saturday 07/18/2026 – Montreal

Sunday 07/19/2026 – Montreal → Vancouver

Foolishly, I booked our return flight on the day of the World Cup final. The game is supposed to end one hour and twenty minutes before our departure time. I’m consider going to the airport early to watch the whole game there. Otherwise I will have to watch it elsewhere and hurry to the airport afterwards. If the game is tied after ninety minutes there’ll be another half hour of play and if it is still tied, penalties. In that case, they’ll be happening while we board the plane. I hope I don’t miss anything special and I regret not being able to watch the game with my friends at home.